You can have a solid blaster, a steady air supply, and still get lousy results if the media is wrong. Too aggressive and you warp panels or erase details. Too mild and you burn hours (and air) polishing rust that should have been gone in minutes. If you want predictable stripping, consistent profile, and fewer clogs, the decision starts with the media - not the nozzle.

How to choose sandblasting media for the job

The fastest way to choose is to answer three questions: what are you removing, what are you blasting, and what finish do you need afterward. Media selection is really about controlling cutting speed and surface profile while keeping dust and cleanup realistic for your shop.

If you are removing thick rust on heavy steel, you can run a harder, sharper abrasive and accept a coarser profile. If you are cleaning oxidation off aluminum, you need something that cleans without digging. Paint removal sits in the middle, and the “right” media depends on whether you are stripping a frame, a wheel, or a body panel.

Start with the base material (because damage is expensive)

Steel forgives a lot. Cast iron and structural steel can handle more aggressive media and larger grits, and they often benefit from a clear anchor profile for coatings.

Aluminum, brass, and thin sheet metal are where people get into trouble. Aggressive abrasives and high pressure can peen or warp thin panels, and coarse media can leave a profile that shows through paint. For those jobs, your goal is usually controlled cleaning - not maximum cutting.

Wood, fiberglass, and composites need an even softer touch. Many traditional abrasives are simply too aggressive, and dust control becomes a bigger deal.

Be honest about what you are removing

Not all “coatings” behave the same under blast.

Rust and scale usually need either a sharp abrasive that fractures and keeps cutting, or a hard media that can break through the surface quickly. Thick mill scale on steel is a different animal than light surface rust on a bracket.

Paint can be brittle or gummy depending on age and type. A media that shreds powder coat efficiently may be overkill for single-stage paint on thin metal.

Grease and heavy grime are their own category. Abrasive blasting is not a degreaser. If you blast oily parts, media can cake, siphon lines can clog, and you end up wasting time. Degrease first if you want consistent flow.

Decide what “done” looks like

Some jobs just need to be clean. Others need a specific surface profile so primer and coatings bite and stay put.

If you are prepping for epoxy primer, powder coat, bedliner, or industrial coatings, the profile matters. Too smooth and coatings can delaminate. Too rough and you can fight pinholes, excess film build, or a textured finish you did not want.

For cosmetic parts, your finish target is usually “uniform and controllable.” That typically means a finer grit or a less aggressive media that leaves an even look.

Media types: what they do well and where they bite you

Most buyers get stuck because every media sounds like it can do everything. It cannot. Each type comes with trade-offs in aggressiveness, dust, reusability, and how forgiving it is on sensitive surfaces.

Crushed glass: fast stripping with a clean feel

Crushed glass is a common go-to for rust and paint removal on steel. It cuts efficiently, doesn’t carry free silica like old-school sand, and tends to leave a consistent profile.

The trade-off is that it is still an aggressive abrasive. On thin sheet metal, it can be too much if you run high pressure or linger in one area. If you want speed on frames, brackets, suspension parts, and heavy steel, it’s a strong pick.

Aluminum oxide: aggressive, reusable, and consistent

Aluminum oxide is a hard, sharp abrasive that stays effective over multiple cycles in a cabinet. It is a favorite when you want repeatable results and a reliable profile.

The trade-off is cost and aggressiveness. It can remove material quickly, which is great for heavy rust and tough coatings, but it demands more discipline on softer metals and thin panels. If you are cabinet blasting regularly and want predictable cutting, it earns its keep.

Glass bead: cleaning and finishing without heavy cutting

Glass bead is more about peening and cleaning than ripping material off. It’s often used to brighten metal, remove light oxidation, and create a smooth, uniform finish.

The trade-off is speed on heavy rust and thick coatings. If you need to strip, you may be waiting a long time. If you need a clean, consistent finish on aluminum parts or stainless pieces, it’s a smart choice.

Garnet: a balanced abrasive with good control

Garnet sits in a practical middle ground. It cuts well, can be relatively low dust compared to some abrasives, and is widely used for general-purpose blasting.

The trade-off is that it is not always the cheapest option, and depending on your setup and containment, reclaim may or may not be worthwhile. If you want a capable “do a lot of things well” media, garnet is often a safe answer.

Walnut shell and other soft media: stripping without digging in

Soft media like walnut shell is used when you want to remove coatings without chewing up the base material. It can be useful for delicate substrates or where preserving edges and details matters.

The trade-off is that it won’t solve heavy rust, and it can struggle with hard coatings. It also requires thoughtful cleanup since soft media can break down.

Steel shot and grit: heavy-duty profiling and production work

Steel shot and steel grit are typically used in higher-end or industrial setups for heavy steel work where reclaim and repeatability matter.

The trade-off is that it is not the most forgiving path for small shops, and it is not appropriate for many mixed-material jobs. If you’re not set up for it, it’s usually more hassle than help.

Grit size and shape: the real controls for speed and finish

Media type is only half the decision. Grit size and particle shape change everything.

Coarser grit removes material faster and leaves a deeper profile. Finer grit is slower but leaves a smoother finish and more control on thin or cosmetic surfaces.

Shape matters too. Angular particles (like crushed glass and aluminum oxide) cut. Rounder particles (like glass bead) peen and clean.

If you are chasing adhesion for a coating, you usually want an angular media and a grit that matches the coating system you plan to use. If you are chasing appearance, a finer grit or bead-style media tends to look better.

Match the media to your blaster and compressor

A media that works great on paper can be a constant clog in your real setup.

Pressure-pot blasters generally handle a wider range of media and flow more aggressively. Siphon-feed guns can be pickier, especially with heavier media, damp media, or inconsistent grit.

Your compressor matters just as much. Higher CFM supports larger nozzles and coarser media without pressure drop. If your compressor is on the edge, you can still get good results by stepping down grit size, using a smaller nozzle, and accepting a slower cut. What you want to avoid is blasting for 20 seconds, waiting for pressure to recover, and repeating - that kills productivity and creates uneven finishes.

Moisture control is non-negotiable. Damp media clumps, pulses, and sticks to metering valves. A filter and dryer setup is not a “nice to have” if you want consistent flow.

Dust, containment, and cleanup: choose for your workspace, not just the part

Open-air blasting without containment can turn “quick job” into “shop shutdown.” Finer media and more friable media create more airborne dust. That affects visibility, cleanup time, and how hard your dust collection has to work.

If you blast in a cabinet, reusability and dust extraction matter more. If you blast outdoors or in a temporary enclosure, you may prioritize media that cuts fast and is easy to sweep up, even if you do not reclaim it.

Also think about where the spent media ends up. Complex parts trap grit in seams, threads, and cavities. If that is a problem, choose a media that is easier to remove or plan for blow-out and washing steps.

A quick decision path that works in real shops

If you want a practical baseline: for heavy rust on thick steel, start with an angular, aggressive media and a medium-to-coarse grit, then back off pressure if needed. For paint stripping on general steel, a medium grit abrasive is usually enough. For aluminum parts where appearance matters, glass bead or a finer, less aggressive media is typically safer.

The key is to test on a scrap or hidden spot first. Ten minutes of testing beats redoing a panel or chasing a finish you accidentally ruined.

If you need a straightforward place to grab media, blasters, and the filters that keep them running, Pro Air Tools keeps the sandblasting section organized for quick buying, and orders ship out in 1 day with a free 36-month warranty on products: https://proairtools.com/.

Common mistakes that cost time (and how to avoid them)

The most common mistake is choosing media based only on “fastest removal.” Speed is great until you profile too deep, embed contamination, or create heat and distortion on thin metal.

The second is ignoring air quality. If your media flow surges, clogs, or spits, fix moisture and filtration before you blame the abrasive.

The third is running too coarse a grit because it “feels” productive. Coarse grit can leave a profile you then have to bury under primer or sand back down, which is wasted work.

The last is trying to make one media do every job. Most shops end up with at least two: one for stripping and profiling, and one for cleaning and finishing.

A good blasting setup is predictable. When the media matches the surface, the coating, and your air supply, the job stops feeling like a fight and starts feeling like a process you can repeat anytime you need it.